In the United States, Mary Phelps Jacob was granted a U.S. patent (nr 1,115,674) in the newly created patent category for "brassieres", in 1914. She was aided in this work by her French maid, Marie. Their invention was a lightweight, backless bra suitable for wear under low-cut evening dresses. Although it was not the first bra to be commercially produced in the U.S., the use of the name "brassiere" (rather than the older term "bust supporter") has led to the misconception that Jacob's invention was the first bra, or the first American bra; in fact, U.S. bra patents appear in the 1860's. After making and selling a few hundred of her brassieres under the name "Caresse Crosby", Jacobs sold the patent to the Warner Brothers Corset Company in Bridgeport, Connecticut, for $1,500 (or over $25,600 in today's money). Warner's did manufacture the "Crosby" bra, but it does not seem to have been a popular style and was eventually discontinued. Later commentators would assert that Warner's made millions off of Jacob's invention, but this appears to be untrue.
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As corsets became lower during the later 1910's, the bust received less upwards support and a low, sloping bustline became fashionable. Brassieres from the late 1910's and early 1920's were merely slightly shaped bandeaus, holding the bust in and down by means of a clip attached to the corset. This culminated in the "boyish" silhouette of the early 1920's, with little bust definition.
In 1922, Ida Rosenthal, a seamstress at the small New York City dress shop, Enid Frocks, along with shop owner Enid Bissett and husband William Rosenthal, changed the look of women's fashion. The "boyish figure" then in style downplayed women's natural curves through the use of a bandeaux brassiere.
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